Mediterranean health food

The day we dined there, my guest and I walked in through the back door because it was closest to our parking spot and, in doing so, almost crashed into co-owner Olina Nikolini, who was scurrying around getting things in order. She regained her composure quickly, and we were promptly seated.

With its hardwood floors, cool blue colors, built-in clothing store and art-for-sale on the walls, the ambiance at Nikolini is part beach resort and part Bohemian boutique.

Nikolini's Mediterranean Greek cuisine derives its roots from Thessoloniki, the second-largest city in Greece, but proprietors Olina and Gino Nikolini describe their cuisine as part of "a culture of macrobiotics."

By that they mean, the food they serve is fat-free, or low-fat, with little or no salt, and officially certified as healthy for the heart by dieticians at Medical City Dallas. Entrees are cooked in extra virgin olive oil at low temperatures.

For that reason, the wait time is often longer than it might be in other restaurants, something I wish I had known at the time I ordered a Nikolini kebab wrap ($9) and an organic mango-orange soda ($2.50). My guest ordered the lamb Greek kebab with organic potatoes ($14).

Our waitress, who looked more like a model for Chanel sunglasses than a server, arrived with our entrees a full 30 minutes after we ordered. The chicken wrap was served on warm pita-style bread smothered in organic Greek yogurt and spices. Accompanied by a house salad of mixed greens, the combination was on the mark, in flavor, succulence and freshness. Not too spicy, nor bland, the light nutritious lunch was just right for a working afternoon.

My guest's entrée, which came served on grilled flat bread along with slow-roasted potatoes, was infinitely more interesting than mine. The kebabs, which I sampled, were moderately spicy and cooked medium-well, and the flat bread was crispy and warm, similar to the variety of breads popular in Indian cuisine.

No hurry

Unfortunately, we didn't have time to try dessert, but the menu included several sugar-free options such as baklava, crème brulee and Greek honey cookies.

A word of caution: the service at Nikolini's is atypical of most Dallas establishments. The house rarely answers its phones, there's no rush to serve customers, and one wonders if the eclectic, eccentric operation is by design or necessity. However, the fare's worthy enough to accept Nikolini's on its own terms.

EAT SHEET

RESTAURANT: Nikolini Cafe/Organicity
ADDRESS: 2714 McKinney Ave., Dallas 75204
PHONE: 214-954-0303
LUNCH HOURS: Mon.-Fri., 10:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.; Sat. and Sun., 11 a.m. -3 p.m.
SEATING CAPACITY: 220
WEB: www.organicity.com

D Magazine:
Best Restaurants in Dallas!

(click here to read article)

D Magazine, June 2006:
Revisit Nikolini's

Dallas Luxury Magazine:

Best Organic Recipies!!
Macedonian Style
Roasted Eggplant
from Gino & Olina Nikolini

Dallas Morning News:
A Hearty Meal!

(click here to read article)